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BG104844016

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BG104844016 30/01/2018

The encoder is OK, but the switch is NOT brought out to any pins, which means soldering, no matter what you do. Since the 'C' pin is directly connected to the GND pin, you can cut the trace on the back between the two pins, and wire one side of the switch to the old GND pin, and then wire the other side of the switch to either 'C' (the new GND pin) or to VCC. Normally you'll want the switch to GND as most micros have internal pull-up resistors, and it's less to wire in later. I've added a schematic of the debounce filtering on the photos below for your convenience. If you still have too much bounce, you might want to add up to .1uF caps on top of the existing 22nF capacitors. You may not need it. Since the description doesn't mention it, the encoder has 20 detents / positions per 360 revolution. I can't do a PREVIEW, so hopefully the photo comes through readable.

Módulo de codificador rotativo de 360 graus 3Pcs para o módulo de codificação Geekcreit para Arduino - produtos que funcionam com placas Arduino oficiais

US$7.99 US$9.99

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BG104844016 10/02/2018

One major gripe: the fine threads on the lens holder were packed with some type of VERY thick grease or oil; I had to totally disassemble both modules to clean that junk out, as it was so thick that the lens wouldn't turn. Waveshare, you should NEVER put heavy grease on fine camera threads! It took several hours for the Goo Gone to completely evaporate before I could re-assemble the cameras, even after an Isopropyl wash. I gave it 2 stars for quality as some of you will damage your camera disassembling it to remove the thick gunk. Goo Gone (D-limonene) plus IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) seemed to clean it OK. IPA alone didn't cut it. I think this is the manual for it: https://www.waveshare.com/w/upload/6/61/RPi-Camera-User-Manual.pdf No mark on the board whatsoever to tell me WHICH of those models shown at https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/Category:Raspberry_Pi_Camera Banggood is distributing, but you get what you pay for with a cheap camera. I suspect it's this one: https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/RPi_Camera_(F) Neither of the two I received have the CdS photocell as shown in the description above (that's part of the IR / Nightvision illuminator), but they DID come with RasPi cables, which aren't shown or mentioned in the description. I trusted the description (Notes: Only include the camera module) so I have 2 camera cables coming in from eB@y as they're not sold here. After updating the Pi (just in case), I downloaded the binary for Pi-Vision, https://github.com/local-vision/Pi-Vision It's quite a bit easier to use than the command line. Don't forget to make it executable (see the readme at github). Yeah, you can run it from a terminal session, but who the heck WANTS to?? Pi-Vision gives you all the control you need without having to remember obscure command line parameters.

Módulo de câmera para Raspberry Pi 4 Model B / 3 Model B / 2B / B+ / A+

US$11.99 US$21.99

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BG104844016 22/02/2018

I spent a week trying to make it work. I finally built the tester found at the site that used to sell the K150 originally, and the tester said there was a short between VPP1 and VPP2. Verified with DVM, yes, there was. I filed an after-sale report that the K150 was bad and had a shorted circuit (the first pic) and got a worthless response that wanted videos of the SHIPPING PACKAGING (that's in the trash). I ordered a genuine PICKit 2 from someone else in the US, due in tomorrow. This evening, I started cutting every place that might be the shorted circuit (you can see scrapes in the second pic). I removed the ICSP header and WOW! There's my short! A trace that should NEVER be there! I cut that trace and it works now. Too late, due to the poor response when I filed the complaint, this is my last purchase here. Don't buy this board unless you plan to repair it yourself, like I had to. When my e-paper LCD order either arrives or is returned to Thailand, I'm done. The e-paper is still lost in shipping as of this evening; I may lose $8 on that purchase.

Geekcreit® K150 ICSP USB PIC Desenvolva Automaticamente Programador do Microcontrolador

US$17.59 US$19.99

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BG104844016 22/02/2018

You'll want to remove the 0 ohm resistor on back and run your signal input into the unmarked pad next to the red wire. If you use it as-is, the unit runs VERY hot with voltage over 12VDC and will burn up the 3.3V regulator. Split the supply from the measurement input, and it works just fine without overheating at >12VDC.

Geekcreit® Voltímetro digital mini de 0,28 polegadas 2,5V-30V Testador de tensão Voltímetro de duas linhas

US$6.29 US$8.99

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BG104844016 09/02/2018

Unless you're maybe a watch maker. The product description says 'adjustable', the back of the package says "Adjustable atwill" (sic), but unless you know how to remove one or more of the links, it ain't happening 'cos the thing is riveted together through the snap. I'll have to take it to a watch shop and see if THEY can figure out how to remove a couple of links (I have very small wrists).

Correia de pulso ajustável anti estática ESD de descarga Banda pulseira de metal terreno

US$4.11 US$6.17

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Geekcreit® NodeMcu Lua ESP8266 ESP-12F Placa de desenvolvimento WIFI

US$6.99 US$16.99

Q: When mounted on breadboard, how many row of hole in breadboard remaining free on the long sides?

perguntado por pacabang sobre 2017-11-10 04:45:11

tied2texas Place the module straddling one power/ground strip (two buses) between two breadboards and you have 3 rows of pins on either side of the module. It won't straddle two of the power/ground strips (4 rows total), but it'll sit astride one of them comfortably.

2018-02-06 05:46:19 Útil

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BG104844016 03/02/2018

Apparently they don't know what a Luer-Lok connection is. The needle shoves up inside the nozzle/cap of the bottle, resting on the nipple at the top of the bottle. It doesn't leak in actual use, but it's impossible to put the needle protection cover back on since the Luer-Lok is shoved INSIDE the bottle. If you look at the photo, the cover is just resting on top and will fall off easily. That's *zero* protection. In their defense, it doesn't appear to leak with this screwy connection method. It's an amusing way to produce a bottle with a needle tip, but I'll look elsewhere for a real bottle with a Luer-Lok top.

2Pçs 50ml Ponta de Agulha Fluxo Solda Líquida Distribuidor Óleo Álcool Garrafa de Plástico

US$5.99 US$7.99

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BG104844016 26/01/2018

Luckily I bought 5 of these, and didn't grab the bad one for my initial test. Worked fine with both 3.3V and 5V signals. Then I started testing all 5 boards. I got to number 3, and it wouldn't do anything. A quick look with a 4X eye loupe showed the Vin pin on the regulator wasn't soldered because the LDO had skewed off-center during soldering. If the unsoldered pin isn't clear, you can tell from the outline silkscreen - it's WAY off the pad. A quick touch-up and 5 of 5 modules worked. It gets 2 stars for quality 'cos if I'd only bought one (and it was the bad one) I'd have been severely frustrated.

Geekcreit 0,91 polegadas 128x32 IIC I2C Display LCD OLED azul módulo DIY IC Driver SSD1306 DC 3.3V 5V

US$6.99 US$8.99

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BG104844016 25/01/2018

... as in NONE, other than what's above and a small drawing on the back of the meter. The connection drawings above do not mention the aux power jack on the left (looking at it from the back) which is the preferred way to power it up. Don't feed more than 12V into it the power continuously or the unit will heat up. You can feed any voltage on the V+ sense line (up to the max) with no problems. Accuracy isn't stellar (two Flukes read 9.67V, this read 9.63) but it's easily usable.

DANIU YB4835VA 0-100V 20A Display duplo Volt Meterr Medidor de corrente Digital LED

US$18.69 US$20.99

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BG104844016 25/01/2018

I'll have to put a bigger plate on the stand as very few of my PCBs are only 4" by 4", but otherwise the aluminum stand is a good addition to an inexpensive microscope.

Titular Suporte de Liga de Alumínio para Microscópio Digital G600

US$26.39 US$28.99

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BG104844016 25/01/2018

Which company in China doesn't understand that USA has ZERO use for a 5V 2A adapter with EUROPEAN POWER PINS?? To add insult to injury, the DC jack on the microscope uses a mini-B connector, and all of my 2A+ adapters are micro-B. The only way I can power it up is with an old camera cable plugged into my desktop, and my desktop only provides 1 amp per USB port. The supplied mini-USB cable was of such poor quality that it didn't make reliable connection in my desktop. Other than that, the microscope appears to work fine. I'll need to visit the post on Hackaday to bring the switches out externally since any touch of the microscope (like trying to take a capture) wipes out the focus with jitter. Luckily I bought the aluminum stand, as the supplied suction-cup stand fell over after a few minutes stuck to my table top. The firmware should have had SOME provision for streaming to the PC when connected via USB. As it is, it appears to only go into CHARGING mode. That's amazingly short-sighted of the designers. Think of your customers, people!

MUSTOOL® G600 Digital Portátil 1-600X 3.6MP Microscópio Lupa Contínua

US$45.99 US$55.99

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DC 12V SMA Fonte de Ruído Simples Espectro Gerador Externo Tracking Source Module With Case

Q: What size is the 12V DC input jack?

perguntado por tied2texas sobre 2018-01-20 11:38:24

Apogee mxkmxk1 5.5*2.1mm

2018-01-26 12:18:37 Útil (1)

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BG104844016 18/01/2018

Works OK with the breakout pod on my old 54645D H-P MSO. The clips are small enough to probe SOIC and PLCC, no way they'll do anything with a finer lead pitch. It's a little tricky getting the clip onto SOIC/PLCC, but it's strong enough to hold once it's clipped in place. WAY, WAY cheaper than the old clips from H-P, and roughly 1/2 the price of the equivalent EZ-Hook kit (14 pieces of XK Micro-Hook). I'd like to see these offered in standard BBROYGBVGW color code packs, but other than that I'm satisfied.

DANIU P5003 10Pcs Mini Grabber SMD IC Test Gancho Clip Jumper Probe Logic Analyzer Testing Accessories

US$23.09 US$25.99

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BG104844016 16/01/2018

Mine showed up with a blob of hot glue on top of the TSSOP footprint (second pic). I cut off 2 stars in QUALITY due to the ball of snot on the TSSOP footprint. Removing it might rip the pads off, and it's needed above the Ethernet header to steady the board. You could use 2 standoffs opposite the 40-header that are 0.765 inch / 1.94cm high to make it more sturdy. That's probably what I'll do The schematic is one I found for an older version of the board. I corrected the schematic to match the board I received (rev 1.2 as shown in the description above). Blame me for any mistakes. Amusingly, the extra 40 pin header I got with the board had bent pins just like the photo at the top of the description. They were easily straightened. You'll need the extra header (with the Ras Pi 3) to get the board above the USB and Ethernet connectors..

Placa de proteção de expansão de prototipagem para Raspberry Pi 2 Model B e RPI B+

US$8.69 US$10.43

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BG104844016 16/01/2018

A 2.5A adapter I bought locally boots the Pi, but -only- if I plug the cable in after powering the adapter. Both of these that I bought power the RasPi 3 either way (plug the cable in with the adapter already powered, or plug the adapter in with the cable already connected to the Pi). That means the output regulation AT POWER UP is more stable than the one I bought locally. Yep, I'd recommend it for RasPi 3 or anything else needing lots of 5V power. Amusingly, the microUSB connectors are different on the two adapters I bought, although both work fine.

5v 2.5a-nos fonte de alimentação micro usb carregador adaptador de corrente alternada para Raspberry 3 pi

US$10.99 US$13.99

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Módulo de Sensor de Temperatura de Termopar K SPI MAX31855 MAX6675 Geekcreit para Arduino - produtos que funcionam com placas Arduino oficiais

US$10.99 US$13.99

Q: Is the description or the photos wrong? Description says "This breakout board has the chip itself, a 3.3V regulator with 10uF bypass capacitors and level shifting circuitry." which is absolutely not shown in the photos.

perguntado por tied2texas sobre 2017-12-30 11:58:35

Trebuchet No. there is NOT a 3.3V regulator nor are there any level shifting circuitry. This is a 3.3V device only. Running it on 5V will fry it. I know I did this. So either use a 3.3 volt controller or add your own level shifting circuit.

2018-03-10 11:36:53 Útil (2)

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